Simplified Installation Procedures:
I. Dinghy transom brackets should be mounted as far apart as possible allowing clearance between outboard motor & poles and dinghy tubes & poles (approx. 24") with the base even with the top of the transom. The engine should turn from side to side without touching the poles.
II. On the stern of the main vessel, find two points that are the same distance apart and the same height from the water as the transom brackets on the dinghy (measured from the center line of the stern).
III. From these two points, the stern brackets may be placed:
A. Not closer together
B. Not more than 6" further apart
C. Not more than 10" higher or 10" lower
IV. Determine the location of BOTH stern and transom brackets before ANY installation. Also, access to interior stern area is essential to install backing plates.
V. Upper rail lifting line anchors must be placed 40" or more apart.
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Models:
There are two models of Dinghy-Tow. The traditional model has straight poles that mount 24" - 30" apart on the stern of the sailboat and is suitable for most applications. The second model of Dinghy-Tow has curved poles which mount 42" - 48" apart on the stern of the main vessel. This model is designed to mount on a wide swim platform allowing a wider access area on the swim platform when the poles are stored. In some cases the curved poles are also useful on sailboats with an offset swim ladder as it allows the lowering of the ladder when the poles are in the storage position.
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Vertical Transoms and Transoms that extend aft of the deck line:
There must be at least 28" between the transom brackets and the closest point to the stern of the main vessel to allow for the outboard motor to tip up when the dinghy is in the water.
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Traditional Transom Boats:
Traditional transoms with the deck line 4" to 5" aft of the lower edge of the stern at water line present no problem, but if the deck line is more than approximately 5" aft of the waterline, the poles may contact the upper portion of the transom before fully elevated. This may not allow the poles to be elevated high enough to function properly.
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Catamarans & Trimarans:
Dinghy-Tow is not compatible with catamarans and trimarans.
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Canoe Sterns:
A special bracket must be used to mount the Dinghy-Tow stern brackets. A teak pad may be fashioned to conform to the curve of the hull to provide a mounting pad for the stern bracket. Click here for more information on Canoe Sterns.
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Fixed Swim Platforms and Walk-through transoms:
A) Stern brackets can be mounted on the flat area of the transom on each side of the walk-through:
- Not more than 30" apart
- Not more than 6" wider apart than Dinghy transom brackets
B) Stern brackets can be mounted at the edge of scoop facing up approx. 30" apart.
- Not more than 6" wider apart than Dinghy transom brackets.
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Boats with freestanding masts:
With no backstay, there is no place to mount the lifting line that would allow the dinghy to be pivoted into storage position. A light dinghy can be pivoted into a low storage position against the stern rail from deck level without using a block on the backstay. There is also the possibility that the main halyard can be used for this purpose. The length of the boom may present a problem when the dinghy is in the storage position, but towing ability is not affected.
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Outboard Motor Brackets:
These brackets must not interfere with the vertical movement of the pole from the water level to the rail and must be 4" or more from the outside edge of the pole.
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Life Rings, Antennae, etc:
These items may need to be moved so as not to interfere with the dinghy in the storage position.
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Wind Steering Vanes:
May not allow for the installation of Dinghy-Tow. The Cape Horn wind vane is known to be compatible with Dinghy-Tow.
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Outboard Rudders:
An outboard rudder may prevent the installation of Dinghy-Tow. The outboard rudder could come in contact with the poles as some room must be allowed for lateral movement. The poles are 46" long and can be placed up to 30" apart on the stern. Also, when moving from dinghy to sailboat, a ladder on the stern of the sailboat must be provided.
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Wide Pivoting Swim Platforms:
Platforms that pivot from the rail down to the water may prevent the installation of Dinghy-Tow if they are more than 24" wide.
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Mizzen Booms:
They may present a problem when the dinghy is in storage position but could be moved to one side to allow the bow of the dinghy to rest on the rail or backstay.
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Centered Stern Ladder or Step:
These items must be located between the stern brackets so that a person can move from the pole step to the ladder to the cockpit.
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Offset Stern Ladders:
An offset stern ladder may interfere with the mounting of the stern brackets and the vertical movement of the poles from water level to the stern rail. We have a "Curved Pole" model of Dinghy-Tow that in some cases compensates for the offset stern ladder and can be used on boats with offset stern ladders. Most Beneteau boats with offset stern ladders are not compatibile with Dinghy-Tow.
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Hard Dinghies without inflatable tubes:
Hard dinghies (not to be confused with rigid bottom inflatable dinghies) cannot be towed by Dinghy-Tow unless there is enough flotation at the bow to support it if the bow section is filled with water. A closed cell flotation collar around the gunnel with additional flotation at the bow should be adequate.
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Inflatable Dinghies:
Inflatable dinghies must have a solid transom.
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Stern Rails:
Due to the varying strengths of stern rails, some Dinghy-Tow installations may require additional stern rail support.
A simple solution to reinforce the stern rail is to fasten a cable (i.e. lifeline 1/4" cable) to the upper lifeline attachment point on the stern rail, and run it forward several feet to a point on the toe rail with a turnbuckle to provide adjustment.
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NOTE: Dinghy-Tow's maximum working load is 350 lbs.
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